Snowy Range Camping . . .and David

It has been an eventful year since our last camping trip: new jobs, leaving those jobs, selling a house, downsizing, and loading up the moving van on a prayer and moving to Laramie.  My son recently flew up from Houston to attend a Python programming camp at Colorado State University in Ft. Collins, so we planned a camping trip for the days between his camp and his flight home.  We’d had our eye on Silver Lake campground, near the top of the Snowy Range on Highway 130 west of Laramie, but it was (and still is) covered in snow.  Father west, 20 miles or so east of Saratoga, Ryan Park was snowless and available.  The reservation site stated that guests were permitted to erect only one tent per camp site; the camp host, however, had no such restrictions.

Many of the sites at Ryan Park are shadeless, including ours.  The afternoon sun proved relentless and heated up the site; a tarp we hung between two trees gave us a sliver of comfort.  A three-quarter mile path circles the campsite, following Carroll Creek and the larger Barrett Creek, both of which roiled with cold snowmelt.  Thanks to an informative historical marker, we learned that the campsite had been used as a POW camp during World War II. Prisoners from Hitler’s and Mussolini’s armies worked six days a week there for the Crow Timber Company between 1942 and 1946.

After a restless and cold first night on an uncooperative air mattress, we headed to the Little Laramie Trailhead, back over the pass to the Laramie side of Snowy Range.  This was a beautiful hike, one of our favorites so far.  Dense, lodgepole pine forest surrounds a well-maintained, easy to follow path.  Our Alltrails app said we put in 2.9 miles; trail extensions allow for longer hikes.

Last summer, our tents did a great job of keeping out rain.  Not so, this trip.  Along with the faulty mattress, our final night at Ryan Park brought a midnight rainstorm and the slow drip of water inside the tent.  When the sun rose, we skipped camp breakfast (except for coffee), stuffed the wet stuff into the back of the Pilot, and were back in Laramie by 8:00.

The Fourth of July in Laramie was perfect.  In ideal weather, we spent the afternoon at Washington Park with 10,000 or so others listening to Danno & Have Fun Will Travel and The Boogie Woogers.  After a lovely dinner at our new favorite restaurant, Altitude, we brought the lawn chairs out to the edge of LaPrele Park, just south of the University, to watch the fireworks.  In the distance, lightning from a storm over Medicine Bow National Forest lit up the clouds behind the display.  Here we met David and his dog Gonzo.  By his own admission, David had spent too long at the pubs and had consumed too many “Colorado edibles.”  A Viet-Nam Veteran and Texan from sometime in his history, he ranted about Trump, extolled the beauties of Wyoming and its history, talked about Idaho and Oregon and Californians, women drivers, Chief Washakie—whose statue sits on Grand Avenue between 15th and 17th Street—and then said goodbye before the fireworks had ended, wishing us well in our new home.  I hope to run into him again some day.

Slowing Down and Seeing Small

Pretty Things along the Path

 Flying on a plane, you’ll see a map view of what lies beneath. From a car, you can see the big pictures, the mountain peaks as they stand next to each other, forests of green that look like carpet, the images moving quickly like on television. It is on hikes that you see the tree itself, or the flower, drops of morning dew hanging from pine needles, or smell the white bushy flowers that filled the air with something like sweet honeysuckle or jasmine, hear the wind through the trees, or the sound of rushing water or, occasionally, a remarkable and rare. . . quiet.  A bird entertained us on the way back from Bridal Veil Falls with his rhythmic exercises: a descending minor third to a repeated tone, mostly in groups of four but, when we listened closely, occasionally five, sometimes three, or even two.

These photographs are a few of the small things that made the hike along Cow Creek in Estes Park so memorable.

05_pinedew 04_flowersy06_flowerw 07_flowerp 10_pineberriesp 13_flowerb 14_flowerw 18_flowerdarkb 25_flowersw 26_flowersw 27_flowersy 28_flowersp 29_flowersy 31_smellgood

Creatures and Flowers and Falls, Oh My!

A long way from Kansas, we’re off to see Bridal Veil Falls

You won’t find the Bridal Veil Falls road, which is actually called the Cow Creek Trail, listed on, even though it is officially in the park. Protrails has it, but gives no directions to getting there. We finally found the route on, and were glad we persevered. During our hike back from Mills Lake a few days earlier, we’d encountered a friendly older couple on their way up who were very eager to tell us that Bridal Veil Falls was a stunning hike, and the “wildflowers were just amazing.” I promptly forgot they’re directions but remembered the name of the falls; how appropriate, after all, since our adventure had become an engagement trip less than a week earlier at Ohaver Lake. Thank you, fellow hikers, for sharing your secrets!


To get there, just go north on MacGregor (off highway 34, the hotel strip, near the Stanley Hotel). It’ll turn into Devil’s Gulch Road (not nearly as scary as it sounds) and after about 3 miles you’ll go left onto a dirt road at a sign that says “McGraw Ranch.” There are only about ten parking spots along the road, so if you get there late, you’re out of luck. This has the advantage of keeping the trail unfettered with human traffic, and is probably why it is not listed in the more public RMNP hiking guides.

The path to Bridal Veil Falls

The path to Bridal Veil Falls

Wild Turkeys

Wild Turkeys

A curious young buck

A curious young buck

Here’s a piece of advice that has served us well on all of our hikes: HIKE EARLY! We tend to head out when the sun is up and arrive at trails no later than 6:30 or 7 a.m. Our reward has been wildlife, still unperturbed by humans, foraging or frolicking in dew-licked meadows. The wild turkeys didn’t seem to mind us, and the young buck was downright curious, gradually meandering closer to us until he was a mere 20 yards off.12_flowero



The panoply of multi-colored wildflowers was truly astonishing; look for some of them on a separate post. And this trail, following Cow Creek up to the falls, is a great opportunity to traverse three different terrains in one hike. The first part is a meadow hike on a nice wide dirt path, fairly flat, full of flowers, and pleasant. We had a cloudy, misty, and slightly foggy morning, but I’d imagine if the sun was out in the afternoon you’d want to bring a hat, sunscreen, and bug spray.

At about a mile in, the path hugs the creek and dips into a thick forest, and we began to feel a more steady uphill climb.







The final part of the hike is rocks. Nothing dangerous, but steep and rocky, the path sometimes hard to find. You don’t need rock climbing gear but for us amateurs it does provide a bit of fun!




The falls themselves were spectacular, and we managed to get some selfies with the help of a couple of guys who’d arrived after us but beat us to the top.



Onme Trium Perfectum

One Hike, Three Lakes: Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, Emerald Lake

Choosing among all the possible hiking trails in RMNP proved to be a thoughtful undertaking. After our first hike in RMNP to Lake Mills, and having completed two hikes already, we searched for a hike that would offer the same beauty we had seen while being doable for our tired legs. The website,, provides the should-be-considered information for such a decision. After perusing the site, pouring over the facts on length, features, difficulty levels, etc., we decided on the hike to Emerald Lake which would take us to two other lakes along the way. Score!

This hike begins at the Bear Lake Trail Head, and, like the Mills Lake hike, it is very popular. To avoid having to ride the shuttle to the trail head or hike the trail surrounded by others, get there early!

01_Elkonroad[1] 01_Elkontheway[1]

Our drive to the trail head was briefly and pleasantly interrupted by an entire family of elk lounging on the road and grazing on the surrounding foliage. The mamas, grandmamas, and babies checked us out as intently, though probably not as admiringly, as we did them.

01_NymphLakeChipGreeting[1] 01_NymphLake[1]

The trail begins with a half-mile, non-stop climb to Nymph Lake. There, we were greeted by a curious and energetic chipmunk who did not want to give up his seat to let us rest. Who could blame him, though?

01_View[1] 01_stream[1] 01_snow[1]01_DreamLake[1]

From there, the trail continues for about a mile to Dream Lake.  After climbing steadily for the first half mile, I was expecting some reprieve, but no. This mile was, I think, even steeper and more exhilarating. Along this part of the trail, the views are simply stunning. Right before arriving at Dream Lake, the trail splits, offering a spur that leads to Lake Haiyaha. We considered elongating our hike by following that path on our way back from Emerald Lake, but, looking at the snow which covered the trail, still, at the base, we decided that trek would be better to take at a later date.

01_EmeraldLake[1] 01_EmeraldLake2[1]

After enjoying the views at Dream Lake, we headed out for Emerald Lake. This part of the trail was yet another climb and partly covered with slick, packed snow. Through the first part of the hike we were showered with sun and amazed with blue skies (You don’t see that kind of blue in Houston), but as we approached Emerald Lake, all that changed. Emerging onto the shore of the lake, at an elevation of 10, 110 feet, we were engulfed in clouds. The lake was covered partly in ice, and the surrounding mountains blanketed in snow.

On the way back down, singing, “I love going downhill. I love going downhill,” we ran into a couple of Park Rangers who were a little surprised that some of us made it all the way up to Emerald Lake, because of all the late-in-the-season snow still left on the trail.  We also pondered the bravery, expressions of misery, and altitude fatigue of tennis-shoe and t-shirt dressed families whose fathers carried wee children and babies in shaded, framed enclosures like donkeys.


This is a great hike. We do recommend being the early bird in order to avoid the crowds, see some beautiful animals and flowers, and take advantage of the serene quiet and peace this trail offers before it is overrun with less than natural wildlife.

Views and Thrills on the way to Lake Mills

Hiking RMNP, Part 1

Approaching Mills Lake, RMNP

Approaching Mills Lake, RMNP

After three nights of camping at Ohaver Lake near Salida, we followed a Western route through curvaceous and vertiginous roads to Estes Park.   Here we stayed at the Stone Brook lodge in our own private cabin complete with a balcony and outdoor hot tub overlooking a roiling, swollen creek. Paula, the owner, was a gracious host, even providing us with a stick of butter for our grilled potato on our last night of the stay. Stone Brook has a strict ‘no children, no pets, no guests’ rule, which would have ruled us out if we’d been traveling with the kids but was absolutely perfect for two tired school teachers running from the cluster and bustle of Houston. The hot tub was listed as a ‘private’ hot tub on the web site, but we discovered when we arrived that ‘private’ meant ‘not shared with other residents,’ as opposed to ‘hidden from view of everyone else.’ Alas, we kept our swimsuits on when enjoying the soothing jets, which turned out to be just the remedy for tired legs and feets.

The view on the Trail to Mills Lake

The view on the Trail to Mills Lake

An Elk in the Trail

An Elk in the Trail

"Our" Elk, up close

“Our” Elk, up close

Our first hike was a 3.2 mile trek to Mills Lake, accessible from a multi-site trailhead down Bear Creek Road. Here’s some very useful advice for hikers at RMNP: get there EARLY! Parking spots fill up and you’ll have to take a shuttle if you can’t beat the crowd, plus RMNP is a popular place, so your trail will be filled with other hikers of various ages and physical condition with their extendable hiking poles, babies, and hurried expressions. We were rewarded within the first mile: an Elk was stopped on our path and after we watched her for a bit before she stepped aside to let us pass within a few feet of her. These animals are used to people but must have an aversion to crying babies and squealing children, because once the path was cluttered with humanity there were none to be seen.

Mountain Path

Mountain Path

Pines and mountains

Pines and mountains

Crossing Streams

Crossing Streams


Alberta Falls

On the way to Mills Lake you’ll pass Alberta Falls, a respectable waterfall which serves as a great photo opportunity. Unfortunately, even at 7:30 a.m. there are other hikers along the path, so communing naked with the water was out of the question.

Flowers on the mountain

Flowers on the mountain

Cindy plays in snow

Cindy plays in snow

Hiking on snow

Hiking on snow

Colorado this year was unusually moist and there was a fair amount of snow on the ground as we got closer to our destination. Most of it was a bit slippery and squishy, and dirty from hikers plying the route, but it was ‘no big thang’ and certainly not persistent enough to warrant skis.

A selfie, thanks to a couple of helpful hikers

A selfie, thanks to a couple of helpful hikers

Cindy at Mills Lake

Cindy at Mills Lake

Mills Lake

Mills Lake

The views along the route were wonderful. We debated, even as we reached the trail juncture, of traveling an additional 2.7 miles to Sky Pond, but took the shorter route to Mills Lake and were rewarded for it. A serene, mountain lake surrounded by trees, it was mirror clear when we arrived. A swarm of large and logy mosquitos descended upon us as we ate a mountain snack, but they quickly dispersed when repellent was applied.

Whiskey Flight at the Historic Stanley Hotel

Whiskey Flight at the Historic Stanley Hotel

Having conquered our first RMNP trail we hit the hot tub, rested, then went for dinner at the historic Stanley Hotel. Supposedly Stephen King got some inspiration for The Shining from this place, possibly at the restaurant, which offered a whiskey tasting flight. Choosing three from the hundreds of selections proved difficult, but the Sazerac won the day with its smooth yet complex flavor that settled well into the throat.

Wandering Nakedly

07_falls1 03_trail

From Salida, go north (or from Buena Vista, go south) on highway 285 until you reach county road 270. Go west for about 3 ½ miles (part of it is dirt road), then turn south again for a mile and a half until you reach the well-marked trailhead. Follow the signs, go up the hill, and you’re on your way.

Brown's Creek Trail, the EZ part

Brown’s Creek Trail, the EZ part

View from Brown's Creek Trail

View from Brown’s Creek Trail

The first part of this trail is a climb; for those unaccustomed to hiking or higher altitude, it’ll wear you out. We stopped frequently to catch our breath, but this isn’t so bad. The view is quite nice: pine and aspen forest, mountains, and on our morning, low clouds that hugged the treetops and gave our journey a murky, nubilous feel. After about ¾ mile, the path flattens, and the climb is much more gradual. Brown’s creek was raging due to ample quantities of rain that had fallen in Colorado recently, so the views of the stream and the multiple crossings of it we made were fun and picturesque.

06_stream2 05_stream

Brown's Creek Falls

Brown’s Creek Falls

The waterfall is about 3 miles from the trailhead, and worth the hike. We left early and, with no one else on the trail (so we thought) decided to ‘walk the walk’ and get a picture of ourselves greeting this natural wonder as God intended: buck naked. For those of you who are interested in trying this the next time you’re alone in the woods, we’ll offer this advice:

1) Be kind, and make sure there is no one else on the trail or within viewing distance. No one wants to be enjoying the beauty of trees and streams and mountains along a forest trail and come face to face with your bare ass, no matter how firm and sexy you think it is.

2) Move quickly. We recommend setting the shot BEFORE taking off your clothes so you don’t end up running around naked trying to find the best spot to frame yourself against whatever other natural beauty you’re trying to capture. Use a camera with a timer and a tripod, but if you don’t have a tripod, placing the camera on top of a rock can also work well.

3) Once you’ve got your shot you’ll want to dress quickly. Someone might be coming, and quite frankly it was pretty darn cold up there against the waterfall.

Celebrating Nature at Brown's Creek Falls

Celebrating Nature at Brown’s Creek Falls

We wish you all fun and adventure and some great naked pics from famous places! Feel free to email us if you do manage to get bare-assed against a scenic mountain lake, waterfall, or National Monument, and we’ll be happy to post it here!


Hiking in Palo Duro Canyon State Park

Palo Duro Canyon is about 30 minutes south of Amarillo and is the second largest canyon in the United States. According to the brochure, “Palo Duro is Spanish for ‘hard wood’ in reference to the Rocky Mountain Juniper trees still seen in places in the canyon.” We hiked the CCC trail, which was listed as “difficult” and timed at an hour and a half; we’d rate it as easy to moderate, and completed it in far less time than anticipated. If you visit, bring sunscreen and lots of bug spray; along with the beautiful vistas, cactus, and wildlife is an abundance of biting flies.


flower bugs

Palo Duro Canyon