I’ve been away for a while, but I’m back! I look forward to your feedback and comments on our travels, cooking, and random thoughts.
I’ve been away for a while, but I’m back! I look forward to your feedback and comments on our travels, cooking, and random thoughts.
Laramie, Wyoming is quiet. Calm. Cool, in both temperature and, like The Fonz, attitude. From our street I can see the Snowy Range off to the west and the brush-covered hills that border hiking trails and Curt Gowdy State Park to the east. In between is vast expanse of sky that hosts a diversity of clouds by day and a surprising density of stars at night. Houston’s lights, buildings, and air quality never afforded me either.
On my way to Denver a few days ago, I was reminded of another reason to have left Houston: the traffic. Interstate 25 was a rage of congestion, construction, unchecked bad driving spawned from the anonymity of vehicles and shared communal anger. For years I’d blamed myself for my anxiety, my high blood pressure, my imagined need to crush another driver’s skull with a crowbar, but like a bad relationship, the solution was simple.
Were it not for an invitation, my wife and I might not have made the trip to the Denver Pride activities, but our close friends from Kansas were driving in and that, along with the promise of a good party, was more than enough to convince us to make the two plus hour drive into downtown. We stayed at the Brown Palace Hotel, close to the Fifteenth-Street Mall and the Capitol grounds where thousands of the proud and colorful walked, danced, held hands, walked their dogs, or lounged in the grass. The pride flag hung above the Capitol steps; the day was gorgeous and so were the people. Colored hair floated through the crowd like cotton candy; furry animal costumes mingled with the topless and nearly denuded; bodies of all shapes, sizes, colors, and, I might add, political affiliations made their way through the packed tents of vendors, and everyone was gay. We laughed when a friend said, “Straight couples are welcome, but don’t flaunt it, you know?” I’d like to think that this gathering represents America, its true nature, embracing individual expression and imagination in a Pantheistic celebration of communal love, but I fear this country still has a long, long way to go.
On Saturday evening, between the Capitol gathering and the Sunday morning parade, we visited the Brown Palace’s cigar bar, an opulent leather-bar from well over a century ago. Framed prominently therein was an original painting by the Italian painter Virgilio Tojetti (1851-1901) titled Colorful Fantasia, but also known as The Sultan’s Dream. Against the backdrop of a Turkish cityscape, a dark, bearded man sits in a boat while naked, white young odalisques clamor to him like codfish to a fisherman. I couldn’t help but interpret the romanticized ‘other’ as both something barbaric and at the same time (because of its prominence in the room) admired, as if to say, “My God, look at that savage,” while secretly savoring the image as a private fantasy. Inebriant ruminations, perhaps, as I enjoyed my cigarillo. The Manhattans were superb.
Pretty Things along the Path
Flying on a plane, you’ll see a map view of what lies beneath. From a car, you can see the big pictures, the mountain peaks as they stand next to each other, forests of green that look like carpet, the images moving quickly like on television. It is on hikes that you see the tree itself, or the flower, drops of morning dew hanging from pine needles, or smell the white bushy flowers that filled the air with something like sweet honeysuckle or jasmine, hear the wind through the trees, or the sound of rushing water or, occasionally, a remarkable and rare. . . quiet. A bird entertained us on the way back from Bridal Veil Falls with his rhythmic exercises: a descending minor third to a repeated tone, mostly in groups of four but, when we listened closely, occasionally five, sometimes three, or even two.
These photographs are a few of the small things that made the hike along Cow Creek in Estes Park so memorable.
A long way from Kansas, we’re off to see Bridal Veil Falls
You won’t find the Bridal Veil Falls road, which is actually called the Cow Creek Trail, listed on rockymountainhikes.com, even though it is officially in the park. Protrails has it, but gives no directions to getting there. We finally found the route on summitpost.org, and were glad we persevered. During our hike back from Mills Lake a few days earlier, we’d encountered a friendly older couple on their way up who were very eager to tell us that Bridal Veil Falls was a stunning hike, and the “wildflowers were just amazing.” I promptly forgot they’re directions but remembered the name of the falls; how appropriate, after all, since our adventure had become an engagement trip less than a week earlier at Ohaver Lake. Thank you, fellow hikers, for sharing your secrets!
To get there, just go north on MacGregor (off highway 34, the hotel strip, near the Stanley Hotel). It’ll turn into Devil’s Gulch Road (not nearly as scary as it sounds) and after about 3 miles you’ll go left onto a dirt road at a sign that says “McGraw Ranch.” There are only about ten parking spots along the road, so if you get there late, you’re out of luck. This has the advantage of keeping the trail unfettered with human traffic, and is probably why it is not listed in the more public RMNP hiking guides.
Here’s a piece of advice that has served us well on all of our hikes: HIKE EARLY! We tend to head out when the sun is up and arrive at trails no later than 6:30 or 7 a.m. Our reward has been wildlife, still unperturbed by humans, foraging or frolicking in dew-licked meadows. The wild turkeys didn’t seem to mind us, and the young buck was downright curious, gradually meandering closer to us until he was a mere 20 yards off.
The panoply of multi-colored wildflowers was truly astonishing; look for some of them on a separate post. And this trail, following Cow Creek up to the falls, is a great opportunity to traverse three different terrains in one hike. The first part is a meadow hike on a nice wide dirt path, fairly flat, full of flowers, and pleasant. We had a cloudy, misty, and slightly foggy morning, but I’d imagine if the sun was out in the afternoon you’d want to bring a hat, sunscreen, and bug spray.
At about a mile in, the path hugs the creek and dips into a thick forest, and we began to feel a more steady uphill climb.
The final part of the hike is rocks. Nothing dangerous, but steep and rocky, the path sometimes hard to find. You don’t need rock climbing gear but for us amateurs it does provide a bit of fun!
The falls themselves were spectacular, and we managed to get some selfies with the help of a couple of guys who’d arrived after us but beat us to the top.
One Hike, Three Lakes: Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, Emerald Lake
Choosing among all the possible hiking trails in RMNP proved to be a thoughtful undertaking. After our first hike in RMNP to Lake Mills, and having completed two hikes already, we searched for a hike that would offer the same beauty we had seen while being doable for our tired legs. The website, www.rockymountainhikingtrails.com, provides the should-be-considered information for such a decision. After perusing the site, pouring over the facts on length, features, difficulty levels, etc., we decided on the hike to Emerald Lake which would take us to two other lakes along the way. Score!
This hike begins at the Bear Lake Trail Head, and, like the Mills Lake hike, it is very popular. To avoid having to ride the shuttle to the trail head or hike the trail surrounded by others, get there early!
Our drive to the trail head was briefly and pleasantly interrupted by an entire family of elk lounging on the road and grazing on the surrounding foliage. The mamas, grandmamas, and babies checked us out as intently, though probably not as admiringly, as we did them.
The trail begins with a half-mile, non-stop climb to Nymph Lake. There, we were greeted by a curious and energetic chipmunk who did not want to give up his seat to let us rest. Who could blame him, though?
From there, the trail continues for about a mile to Dream Lake. After climbing steadily for the first half mile, I was expecting some reprieve, but no. This mile was, I think, even steeper and more exhilarating. Along this part of the trail, the views are simply stunning. Right before arriving at Dream Lake, the trail splits, offering a spur that leads to Lake Haiyaha. We considered elongating our hike by following that path on our way back from Emerald Lake, but, looking at the snow which covered the trail, still, at the base, we decided that trek would be better to take at a later date.
After enjoying the views at Dream Lake, we headed out for Emerald Lake. This part of the trail was yet another climb and partly covered with slick, packed snow. Through the first part of the hike we were showered with sun and amazed with blue skies (You don’t see that kind of blue in Houston), but as we approached Emerald Lake, all that changed. Emerging onto the shore of the lake, at an elevation of 10, 110 feet, we were engulfed in clouds. The lake was covered partly in ice, and the surrounding mountains blanketed in snow.
On the way back down, singing, “I love going downhill. I love going downhill,” we ran into a couple of Park Rangers who were a little surprised that some of us made it all the way up to Emerald Lake, because of all the late-in-the-season snow still left on the trail. We also pondered the bravery, expressions of misery, and altitude fatigue of tennis-shoe and t-shirt dressed families whose fathers carried wee children and babies in shaded, framed enclosures like donkeys.
This is a great hike. We do recommend being the early bird in order to avoid the crowds, see some beautiful animals and flowers, and take advantage of the serene quiet and peace this trail offers before it is overrun with less than natural wildlife.
Hiking RMNP, Part 1
After three nights of camping at Ohaver Lake near Salida, we followed a Western route through curvaceous and vertiginous roads to Estes Park. Here we stayed at the Stone Brook lodge in our own private cabin complete with a balcony and outdoor hot tub overlooking a roiling, swollen creek. Paula, the owner, was a gracious host, even providing us with a stick of butter for our grilled potato on our last night of the stay. Stone Brook has a strict ‘no children, no pets, no guests’ rule, which would have ruled us out if we’d been traveling with the kids but was absolutely perfect for two tired school teachers running from the cluster and bustle of Houston. The hot tub was listed as a ‘private’ hot tub on the web site, but we discovered when we arrived that ‘private’ meant ‘not shared with other residents,’ as opposed to ‘hidden from view of everyone else.’ Alas, we kept our swimsuits on when enjoying the soothing jets, which turned out to be just the remedy for tired legs and feets.
Our first hike was a 3.2 mile trek to Mills Lake, accessible from a multi-site trailhead down Bear Creek Road. Here’s some very useful advice for hikers at RMNP: get there EARLY! Parking spots fill up and you’ll have to take a shuttle if you can’t beat the crowd, plus RMNP is a popular place, so your trail will be filled with other hikers of various ages and physical condition with their extendable hiking poles, babies, and hurried expressions. We were rewarded within the first mile: an Elk was stopped on our path and after we watched her for a bit before she stepped aside to let us pass within a few feet of her. These animals are used to people but must have an aversion to crying babies and squealing children, because once the path was cluttered with humanity there were none to be seen.
On the way to Mills Lake you’ll pass Alberta Falls, a respectable waterfall which serves as a great photo opportunity. Unfortunately, even at 7:30 a.m. there are other hikers along the path, so communing naked with the water was out of the question.
Colorado this year was unusually moist and there was a fair amount of snow on the ground as we got closer to our destination. Most of it was a bit slippery and squishy, and dirty from hikers plying the route, but it was ‘no big thang’ and certainly not persistent enough to warrant skis.
The views along the route were wonderful. We debated, even as we reached the trail juncture, of traveling an additional 2.7 miles to Sky Pond, but took the shorter route to Mills Lake and were rewarded for it. A serene, mountain lake surrounded by trees, it was mirror clear when we arrived. A swarm of large and logy mosquitos descended upon us as we ate a mountain snack, but they quickly dispersed when repellent was applied.
Having conquered our first RMNP trail we hit the hot tub, rested, then went for dinner at the historic Stanley Hotel. Supposedly Stephen King got some inspiration for The Shining from this place, possibly at the restaurant, which offered a whiskey tasting flight. Choosing three from the hundreds of selections proved difficult, but the Sazerac won the day with its smooth yet complex flavor that settled well into the throat.